CONGRATES TO DEBRA HILTON!

Debra came in to see me looking for a Hyundai Santa Fe. She had been 4 places before she came here. Not only did we give her the best deal but were able to get her into a limited Santa Fe with only 23k miles. CONGRATES AGAIN!

CONGRATES TO THE WILLHOITES

Just sold a brand new Dodge Avenger. Awesome car love the black on black.

CONGRATES BENNIE WEAVER!

Bennie weaver a Captain in the United States Army, came in and traded his diesel truck for a brand new 2012 Ram 2500 Cummings diesel truck. We were able to give him a great trade in value and a great payment!

SUPER LEASE ON THE DART!

5 MYTHS ABOUT LEASING!

About 20% of new-car transactions are leases, but I'm convinced that more people should be leasing. As manufacturers figured out that the cash rebates they offered were hurting resale values, and as the credit spigot began to flow freely again, Automakers shifted incentives from rebates to low-interest financing and leases. You have to also weigh in the fact that the car will always be under factory warranty, so you will not be out of pocket for repairs, and you get more buying options including walking away. You also can eliminate being upside down, and have a better loan to income ratio on your credit bureau. When you lease you don't lease the whole value of the vehicle just the part your going to use. So you have more of you income available for credit. If you know what you're looking for and negotiate smartly, you can save money by leasing and disprove the five myths below.

MYTH #1. Leasing is a bad deal.
 In general, if you keep a car well past the day the loan is paid off (or if you pay cash to begin with), you'll save money by buying. But if you trade in your car before the loan is paid off, the value of the trade-in is unlikely to cover the remaining balance on the loan. If you pick a vehicle that has a special lease from the manufacturer you can come out ahead by leasing. This doesn't mean buying a SR8 Challenger 470 horsepower sports car that sale as fast as they arrive. It means looking at the special advertised lease on the manufacture website. These are easy to find; if the vehicle doesn't have a lease special it maybe difficult to beat a purchase loan on the car if you plan on eventually buying the car out right.

Say you negotiate to buy a Chrysler 200 (sticker price: $28,170) for the invoice price -- $25,838 -- with 10% down and a five-year loan at 4.4%. After three years you decide you want a new car. If you trade in the 200, you will likely get about 50% of the sticker price, or $14,025 (the resale value after three years, according to the Automotive Lease Guide). Then you'll have to pay off the loan. Figure your total out-of-pocket cost will be $11,462.
But if you lease that new 200 for three years, your monthly payments will be $290 (Chrysler has been offering subsidized leases on the 2013 200). When you turn in the car at the end of the lease, you'll just walk away (unless you go over your mileage allotment or have unusual wear and tear). Total out-of-pocket cost: $10,150. In this case, leasing would leave you $1,312 richer.
In most states, you pay taxes only on the actual lease payments, so leasing can put you even further ahead

MYTH #2. It's nearly impossible to negotiate a good lease. Almost every facet of a lease is negotiable. But first you need to understand the jargon:

Capitalized cost. In the leasing universe, this is the vehicle price. Shop for your lease at the dealer, focusing on the Capitalized cost.

Money factor. The lower this number, the better (you have to multiply it by 2,400 to get an estimate of the interest rate). If you want to know the money factor just ask the dealer will tell you. The Money Factor can make or break a lease the better the money factor the better the lease. Most interest on a lease will be around 1% comparatively.

Residual value. This is the value of the car or truck at the end of the lease.
An inflated residual value lowers your monthly payments, but it can also handcuff you. A more realistic residual value will make it easier to sell the lease, trade your vehicle in the middle of the lease or buy the vehicle at the end of the lease.


MYTH #3. Only businesses get a tax break.
Tax laws allow businesses to deduct monthly leasing payments as an expense.
But individuals get a tax break, too. In most states, you pay sales tax only on the monthly payments, not the vehicle price. In the Accord example above, you'd owe taxes on about $10,150 in payments rather than the $25,838 vehicle price. (Arkansas, Illinois, Maryland, Oklahoma, Texas and Virginia charge sales tax on the entire price.)

MYTH #4. You will have to pay hefty fees when you turn in the car.
The typical annual allotment of 10,000 to 15,000 miles, and the 15 to 25-cents-per-mile penalty for exceeding the limit. If you buy a car, you're also penalized for higher-than-average mileage when you trade it in. this is about the same thing. You only pay for miles if you walk away, 90% of people that get out of the vehicle before or after the lease is over TRADE the vehicle. If you trade you don't have to pay for the extra miles. If you SALE the car you don't have to pay for miles, and if you BUY the lease out you don't have to pay for miles. Remember you won't get reimbursed so don't get to many miles up front. Raising the miles per year is a little cheaper at the beginning but only if you walk away will the miles even come into play. So try to figure how many miles you drive before you go to the dealer, so you don't panic thinking you need more then you do. The higher the miles the higher the payment.
You may also be able to negotiate a higher mileage limit in exchange for a higher monthly payment and still save money.

MYTH #5. If you want out early, you're stuck.
You can sale your vehicle at any time. You can trade at any time. plus there are several fee-based Web sites, including LeaseTrader.com and Swapalease, these sites match people who want to get out of a lease early with those who want to assume a short-term lease. At LeaseTrader.com, you pay a fee of $90 to post your vehicle and $250 to complete the transfer of the lease

SO HAPPY FOR MARIE EDWARDS.

Marie Edwards had been trying to buy a Dodge Charger for 2 years. No one could get her a loan on anything but a buy here pay here car. She stuck to her guns and decided I'm not buying anything till I can get what I want. I was unable to get her the car a month ago, but we just added 3 new banks with new programs to get people into cars. I called her up and she was able to get the exact car she wanted at an affordable payment with only 1000 dollars down. I'm so glad you waited, and I'm so glad I was able to get you into a 2011 Dodge Charger SXT!  

CONGRATES TO JEFF HALE FOR THE PURCHASE OF HIS PRE-OWNED JEEP WRANGLER!

Thanks again for coming back to our dealership. Jeff wasn't able to get financing on the vehicle he wanted until we just added 3 new banks with new programs for financing. I called Jeff up and told him I can get you in the vehicle you want. He was sceptical, but left in the exact Jeep he wanted at an affordable payment. Jeff had to trade his old jeep a few years ago for a car his wife drives, and had wanted to get into a Jeep again ever since. I'm glad I could get you out rockin the Wrangler again Jeff, and thanks again for trusting me to come back in and work it out!

Cogrates to Alex Lynch

Alex came in to trade his 2004 Saab 930 turbo convertible. Was comparing the Dodge Dart to the Hyundai Veloster turbo. We sale both in our auto group we drove them both he chose the Veloster and loves it! Another happy customer.

CONGRATES to Jeff Shea for the purchase of a new Challenger!

Jeff bought this Challenger for his son who will be 16 July of next year. What a great Christmas this is going to be! Him and his older son drove down all the way from Proctorville Ohio to get the best price! That's right I gave them the best price. I love to make it easy. By the way this car is awesome!

November Deals extended through December 31st!

Still giving away Pre-lit Christmas Trees with every purchase of a new or used vehicle! Also Don't forget I can give you cash back for Christmas at what ever APR your Car loan is for, So instead of using your credit card add it to your car loan at a fixed Subvented Rate as low as 0% interest!

How to Read a Window Sticker.

Anyone who has shopped for a new car has looked at its window sticker — if for no other reason than to check the price. But the window sticker also offers other information that can be useful to buyers. This article will help you navigate the sea of text and numbers on a new car's window sticker. The sample sticker above comes from a 2013 Ford Focus ST and highlights 10 key areas of interest. Keep in mind that the layout of a window sticker can change depending on the automaker, but the information on what the industry calls the Monroney label is required by law to be the same across all manufacturers.

1. Model Information
This is where you will find the basic model information for the vehicle. The section is usually located in the top left or right corner. It tells you the engine and transmission combination, exterior and interior color, the year and trim level of the vehicle. Checking this part of the sticker is the best way to quickly ensure that the car in front of you has the engine and color configuration you're looking for.

2. Standard Equipment
This section of the window sticker lists all items and features that are included in the manufacturer's suggested retail price (MSRP). Items listed here should be consistent with any other vehicle in this trim level. These items are grouped into such categories as: Exterior, Interior, Safety/Security, Comfort/Convenience and Mechanical/Performance.

3. Warranty Information
This section lists the length of the new car's bumper-to-bumper and powertrain warranties and notes any roadside assistance package that the manufacturer offers. Some new cars also come with free maintenance programs, and that coverage is also listed here. If you want to compare coverage among automakers, Edmunds keeps a comprehensive list on the warranty and roadside assistance page.

4. Optional Equipment
In this section, you'll find information on the car's factory-installed options. Some carmakers bundle them into packages. Others offer them à la carte. Knowing a vehicle's options can help you price it correctly and make apples-to-apples comparisons with other cars on the lot.

5. Pricing Information
This is where you'll find the base price of the vehicle and a breakdown of options and fees. Other items that would appear here are the destination charge (cost of transporting the vehicle to dealer) and any gas-guzzler tax (levied on cars with a combined MPG of 22.5 or less). The total price of the vehicle is sometimes located here, but it often occupies its own space.

6. Parts Content Information
Vehicle manufacturing is often a global process. Shoppers who want to "buy American" may have to ask themselves whether a Chevy manufactured in Mexico is more American than a Honda made in Ohio. Answers to questions like that will vary. The parts content section lists where the vehicle was assembled and often the percentage of U.S. and Canadian parts it contains. Our sample window sticker doesn't have the percentages, but many others do. For more information on this question, shoppers can turn to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NTHSA) Web site, which has the percentage breakdown of domestic and foreign content in cars from 2007 to the present.

7. Total Price
This section shows the total MSRP for the vehicle. That doesn't mean you have to pay this price, but it does give you a point of reference in your negotiations. Use Edmunds' True Market Value (TMV®) to help you determine a fair price. Depending on the demand for the car, sometimes this "sticker price" is a fair price.

8. Fuel Economy Label
The fuel economy label, also called an EPA label, gives you estimates of the vehicle's fuel efficiency. This block helps you compare the MPG numbers on one car versus another. The combined MPG number is the most prominent and most important figure to note. The EPA label is all new for the 2013 model year and provides more information than it previously had.

9. QR Code
Scanning this pixelated square with a smartphone camera links shoppers to the mobile EPA Web site. They can then customize their driving stats to get personalized fuel economy data. This article goes more into detail about how the QR code works.

10. Safety Ratings
NHTSA tests a number of new vehicles every year and issues star ratings based on the results. This information is in the safety rating section of the window sticker. Occasionally, the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS) scores also are displayed on the window sticker, as seen on our sample label. Because NHTSA doesn't test every car on the market, the safety-rating section will sometimes be blank. If this is the case, consumers can check the IIHS Web site.

Side Note: Supplemental Window Sticker
You won't always find this sticker on a new car, but if you do, think twice before proceeding with purchase negotiations. Dealers plaster the supplemental window sticker next to the actual window sticker and use it to list the dealer-added, profit-making accessories that are on the car. Here are some tips on how to handle what we call the "rip-off sticker."

"Sticker Is Quicker"
We once heard a salesman say this, referring to how much time could be saved if a customer would just pay the sticker price. We don't agree with that sentiment, but it's true that a new car's window sticker is the fastest way to verify the options on a vehicle so that you can accurately look up its TMV.

Whether you're shopping via the Internet and phone or in person, request a copy of the window sticker of a vehicle you are interested in. Once you have all the information a sticker contains, you can truly determine the best price to pay for a car that's right for you.

Congratulations to Mr. Doyal and Sara Manley!

The Manley's came to see me from Shelbyville Kentucky. Doyal retired from the Army National Guard after 40 years. Sara and him purchased a brand new 2013 Chrysler Town and Country Van! Thanks again so much for your business.

Whats my trade worth?

                           Here's another good question I get all the time with almost every deal I make; what is my current vehicle worth in trade? Well the truth is it's value is what some one will pay for it! That unfortunately is the real answer making valuing a vehicle very difficult, and there are no two cars that are the same.With that in mind this is the way most New car dealers evaluate your trade. Well what we don't use is Kelly Blue Book. you will never see a Used Car Manager (the guy who value's your car) look your car up using KBB the reason is they evaluate your vehicle across large areas first of all so it doesn't take in consideration local market value and can give you a regional price. KBB also only updates quarterly at best which doesn't take in consideration current trends in the market. On some vehicles I have seen KBB off thousands of dollars.What you will see on every Used Car Manager is Black Book and a N.A.D.A guide. The Black book comes out weekly and the N.A.D.A. GUIDE comes out monthly. They will also use local auction reports like Manheim. They will look at what cars similar to yours are going for at the action. The dealers that can afford it will also use a PC program called V-Auto. What V-Auto does is not only have N.A.D.A. VALUE built in but it allows the dealer to see every vehicle similar to yours  in proximity to there location and what it's selling for. So in other words they type in your vehicle Identification number or VIN and every car like yours in 300 miles pops up. What they sold for at action, what there priced at and where they are located. Giving them the best Idea of what your car is worth. Most people think that the Dealership wants your car to be valued for less, this is not true they want your car to be worth the most it can be. This helps the deal go smoother, a good value on your car makes negotiating easier for both party's. Now the dealership does make money off your trade but be aware that not all dealers are trying to rip you off. Most dealers will make room in your trade or even give you more then it's worth in some cases to make a deal. Understand the dealer takes your vehicle in for trade but turns around and takes all the liability for that vehicle. They have to pay to have a inspection for safety before they can sale it. The service center will charge 400.00 to 600.00 for this inspection to the sales department charged to that car. They will also have to fix anything wrong with the vehicle taking the chance that something they had no idea was broke has to be fixed, if not multiple items including O2 sensors, belts, brakes front and back, rotors, engine mounts, tires, transmission, engine, ect. So that engine light that's been on for a year they are going to fix that before they sale the car. This also will be considered in your vehicle appraisal. So there isn't a easy why to answer the question, but here is what you can do to protect yourself. First only shop at larger more reputable dealerships. They care about word of mouth and care about their customers. They would prefer to help you get the most out of your trade so that you continue to do business with them over and over again. If you are unsure how they come up with a value just ask WHY. Why is my vehicle worth that price; the dealership should easily explain exactly how they come up with the figure. If the sales person is new he may not understand how to properly explain how they come up with that number, feel free to ask to speak to the person who priced your trade in. They will know exactly how they come up with the price and can explain it completely. If they refuse to explain why Just go some where else there is no reason they shouldn't tell you. Get an idea before you go in by looking your trade up in N.A.D.A. it will not be able to give you exactly what your going to get but it will not be off 5000.00 dollars if your trade is worth thousands less then that value with no reason why you obviously have a problem. I never have a problem with the value of my customers trade in. The biggest thing is don't listen to what your friends say. It took me about an hour to properly write out a full explanation and I've been in there car business for 12 years, and I still can't value your trade. Used Car Managers have 20+ years in the industry in almost every case. So your friend that has never worked in the car business says your car is worth this or you should have got that for your car is wrong; if his idea of the value of your car is because he thinks so. I have no idea why people do that I have friends that do the same thing and then you start getting buyers remorse over your purchase. Don't let people rain on your parade Come see me or go to a reputable dealership ask why and feel good about making a educated decision. If you ever have an issue and need advice Call, text me 502-648-8118 or just post in the comments and I will be glad to help.

Chad and Ashley Reilly bought a used Ford Edge!

Congratulations to Chad and Ashley Reilly for the purchase of their preowned Ford Edge. Chad works at the Ford plant making the new escape and Ashley is an LPN. They are from Elizabeth-town Indiana. They came down to Louisville looking for a preowned vehicle. Thanks again for your business I'm sure your going To love your car!

Should I put money down?

Here's one of the important questions about buying your next vehicle. Should I put money down? The answer is a big YES! The first thing you have to look at is if you are buying a new car for example there are huge upsides like full factory warranty, perfect condition, sub-rated APR's and factory incentives. They also come with depreciation. It's true that new car will loose value as soon as you leave the dealership up maybe 15%. The reason for this is that the vehicle has been sold and the dealership punches that car sold to you. This tells the factory that the vehicle has been sold and at that point the vehicle loses all incentives from the factory and becomes a Pre-owned vehicle. With out any money down you would put your self in a position to owe more on your new vehicle then it's current value. A simplified example is you pay 20,000.00 for the car and 10% lose in value means that's 18,000.00 but don't forget you didn't put any money down so you financed you Tax's, Licensing, and applicable fee's. You can see very easily this putting you Up-side Down in your currently brand new car. Now let's look at the same thing in a Pre-owned vehicle. You run into the same thing, with out paying your Tax's, Licensing, and applicable fee's your starting in the wrong direction. Then add that when you purchase a Pre-owned or Certified Pre-owned vehicle the dealership pays for that car to have a inspection for safety and spends money making that car retail ready; you in turn pay retail value for that vehicle. So if you wanted to trade that car later on down the road you would get trade in value for it. Unless you sale the car yourself which can be a huge hassle. The next point is that because you put down 15 to 20% you also could get a lower APR from the bank by showing a bigger investment in the purchase. The point is money down protects you from being up-side down and can save you money in the long run. If you cannot put money down make sure to ask about GAP insurance this will be a godsend; it will protect you have an accident in your vehicle. If you owe 20,000.00 on the vehicle and it's valued at 16,000.00 by your insurance company GAP will pay the difference between what you owe and what it's worth. Imagine without it you could have a car that is totaled and you still owe 4,000.00 Dollars; it happens all the time. So save up a down payment and if you can't get some protection to cover yourself.

Upcoming posts!

I will be posting some information about Leasing explained, should I put money down, Financing explained, what is my trade worth, ect. I have so much I what to put on here it's just going to take a little time. I promise to post at least one article about how-to's each day until I cover the basics stuff at least.

James Hazelwood's Pre-owned RT charger!

James has bought 3 cars from me including this 2009 Rt Charger nice ride man!

2012 R/T Challenger!

This customer didn't want to be in the picture. They come to see me from Moorehead Kentucky just to find the best deal. So glad I could help with selling you your Dream car!

Sold a brand new SRT8 Jeep Grand Cherokee!

Congratulations to Ricardo Resto on the purchase of your new SRT8 Jeep Grand Cherokee!!!!

Hello Everyone!

Hello everyone this is the first post to my new blog. I would like to take the time to introduce what I want this to Blog to be about. I have sold cars here in Louisville Kentucky starting in 1999. I have always liked people and helping them get in there next vehicle, but I have found it difficult to help as many people as I would like because advertising is very expensive. I also a lot of the time can give expert advice to educate buyers about how to, what to, and even what not to buy. I also wished I could have logged all my customers and some of they're experiences where people could share and learn from it. This is going to be that place. I Started Selling Mazda, Vw, and Subaru vehicles and moved after almost 10 Years to the Oxmoor Auto Group the #1 new car dealership in Kentucky. I work at the Oxmoor Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram Dealership at 4520 Shelbyville Road Louisville Kentucky 40207. This store is the #1 Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram dealer in Kentucky. I absolutely love this store and Our product. I hope to use this blog to help people Find a new vehicle that will suit all there needs and not break there budget, and post some helpful information and buying tips regardless if you buy from me or not.